Hungry like the Wolf – Hiking & Eating in the Sibillini Mountains

by Silvio on November 25, 2010

View of the Sibillini Mountains Le Marche & Umbria ItalySituated in Central Italy to the east of Umbria, Le Marche is bordered to the West by the Apennines and their highest stretch the Sibillini Mountains, which are protected by one of Le Marche’s 9 National Parks. The captivating, wind sculpted terrain of the Sibillini National Park has over 10 peaks in excess of 2000 metres and is surprisingly accessible thanks to the villages that cling to the crags of this rugged landscape at excessive altitudes and the many shepherds tracks that are detailed on a superb topographical map of the area. The national park is home to a vast array of wildlife that includes deer, boar, wolves, martens, chamois and wildcats, golden eagle, peregrine falcon, goshawk, eagle owls and there is even rumour of the presence of a bear.

There are many lively towns  that skirt the park and  are great bases for a vacation in this wonderful part of Le Marche region, the main two near the most dramatic scenery are Amandola and Sarnano. Both of these towns offer great access to both hiking from the foot of the mountains and also drives up to the 4 or 5 higher starting points that take out much of the hard work. There is a significant network of trails that follow the ridges from 1600m to 2500m, including the “Gran Anello” or “Big Ring” of the Sibillinis; which is a 9 day hike that has its own guide book. The National Park has numerous agriturismos where you can “mangia bene, spende poco”; which translates as “eat well but spend little” but doesn’t really do justice to the sumptuous food on offer. There are also a number of “ rifugii” (refuges), which offer great food and often accommodation.

The park is home to surprising Romanesque architecture and some of Italy’s most stunning gorges including “Golla dell’Infernaccio” literally translated as “hells gorge” which is home to a monk who lives a hermit-like existence and has spent the last 30 years single-handedly building a sizeable gothic church. You can visit him and admire his church if you walk down the gorge and after 45mins follow the path to the right signposted “San Leonardo”, alternatively, grab yourself a drink, sit down and check him out on youtube. Oh! and if you go to the gorge, make sure to look out for wild raspberries that grow along the side of the path.

The Sibillini National Park also has many glittering waterfalls and glistening turquoise lakes such as the glacial lake Pilato, where Pontius Pilate allegedly drowned himself and Lake Fiastra with its superb swimming, beaches and tavernas. If you visit be sure to try  Agriturismo Il Tribbio in the village of Fiastra, where there is also a restored tower and a hill with views of the whole lake. Beyond the dam at the North Eastern end of the lake is the village of Monastero, from where you can walk down the Gorge “Golla Del Fiastone” and also walk to a hermitage. Be sure to take your flip-flops as the walk traverses the river which is seriously cold!

The area also has a number of Ski resorts including Sassotetto near Sarnano which was recently the recipient of European Investment into new lifts, a snow park with half-pipe and jumps for boarders, restaurants and a lake plus snow cannons.

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